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Can somebody answer this: Why do you get an ice build up to begin with? I see an ice build up on my house but nowhere near the build up on others with massive icicles.
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Someone at work installed these in the fall on a problem roof which always had ice dams. This year - NONEOriginally posted by DTWarren:
I was thinking of this too. Anyone have any input on these, types, how they work, etc?
Check these out-
http://www.easyheat.com/Content1/PDF..._broch_web.pdf
http://www.easyheat.com/Content1/PDF...ersman_web.pdf
Georgia L Schlager
There are 2 houses on my street that don't have gutters but have what looks like a 2" x 10" or 2" x 8" across the length of the roof about 3' up from the edge. Never saw that anywhere else before. Wouldn't that be detrimental to the foundation?
Georgia L Schlager
In order to conserve heat you want your house to keep the heat inside and not allow heat to escape through the roof. Well insulated houses with good roof ventilation will have more snow and ice build up on the roof. A poorly insulated house with low roof ventilation wil not have very much ice build up as the snow and ice are melted from within as heat escapes through the roofing area.
The ice buildup is created when the snow melts and runs down the roofing. The higher portion of the roof is heated more than the lower areas due to the fact that heat rises. As the melted snow travels down the roof it changes back over to ice and forms a dam. This is often exasperated by the overhang of many roof systems. The interior section of the roof is much warmer than the eaves(overhang) of the roof due to heat loss through the attic. It is the dam that stops the water from continuing downward and actually ends up puddling and moving up the roof under the shingles and then finds any way downward again usually resulting in a path of least resistance through to the interior ceiling of your home.
The best case scenario is to have a well ventilated roofing system and a well insulated attic allowing the heating and cooling to be retained. In order to alleviate the ice backup problem a quality ice and water shield should be installed underneath the roofing material. The ice and water shield should be installed starting at the bottom edge of the roof and continue up the roof at least 36"-72".
I hope this explanation is not too long or boring.
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The gutter systems you mention here are called Yankee gutters. These are very typical throughout the city of Buffalo. Before metal gutter systems, homes were built with either a trough at the bottom of the roofing system (usually when the roofing material was tile, slate or copper) or with Yankee gutters.
Yankee gutters are constructed by nailing or screwing a board (typically a 1-5/8" X 5" "gutter board") on end along the bottom 2 feet of the roof at an angle downward from one side of the roof to the other (typically at an angle of approximately 1" - 2" per 10' of linear footage). These gutters also had a spout built in to the lowest part of the angle in order to allow the water to flow from the gutter into a down spout which would carry the water to the ground or in many cases down into the fresh water sewer system.
I hope this helps explain these "gutters" without getting too technical.
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Yankee gutters.... They work fine if proper ice shield is used. I do not even use gutters on part of my house. The water slopes away from the foundation in those locations.
Ice is formed because heat is escaping up through your roof causing the snow to melt then freeze as it gets colder at night.
Proper ventilation and installation is the only solution to ice buildup, electric contraptions and all are just stop gap measures.
The above is opinion & commentary, I am exercising my 1st Amendment rights as a US citizen. Posts are NOT made with any malicious intent.
Opps, should have figured Mr. Roof Mike would have answered the questions. Scratch mine....
Mike when I did my roof last year I just put ice shield on the complete roof, really did not coat that much more. Tripled up the valleys. Thought it best seeing I have a hip off a hip with two long valleys.
Lots of ice this year as I have cathedral ceilings, yes I have a roof vent and baffling all the way up but just not enough rafter room for proper installation.
The above is opinion & commentary, I am exercising my 1st Amendment rights as a US citizen. Posts are NOT made with any malicious intent.
Cathedral ceilings are harder to insulate. However they make a baffle vent that runs on the inside of the rafter space allowing ventilation for each and every rafter space from soffit to ridge. Ridge vent and soffit vents must also cover all rafter areas. Always best to install BEFORE drywall application. Sorry!
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