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Thread: I need a good roofer

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNYresident View Post
    I was thinking about the handy hand torch but then wondered how many propane containers it would take to clear the gutters...

    News at 11.... local guy burns house down while de-icing gutters...
    I literally considered using one of those propane torch/turbo heaters. The thought lasted about 5 seconds, but I'd be lying if I said it didn't resurface about 10 more times in the next hour or so of chiseling ice off the roof...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FisherRd View Post
    I literally considered using one of those propane torch/turbo heaters. The thought lasted about 5 seconds, but I'd be lying if I said it didn't resurface about 10 more times in the next hour or so of chiseling ice off the roof...

    When we were first chopping the ice my hands got sore... had to stop and just rest....wasn't really the cold.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNYresident View Post
    When we were first chopping the ice my hands got sore... had to stop and just rest....wasn't really the cold.
    My right hand and elbow are still killing me. My knees/shins are black and blue from the way I was balancing myself on the ladder too.

  4. #19
    Member OneEmerald's Avatar
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    Can somebody answer this: Why do you get an ice build up to begin with? I see an ice build up on my house but nowhere near the build up on others with massive icicles.
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  5. #20
    Member dtwarren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorja View Post
    I did that and also chipped away the ice dam on the gutter with a claw hammer. I had a leak during the last thaw. Waiting for the warmer temps on the weekend to see if my work paid off.

    In the summer, I'm installing this thermal gutter cable on the roof with little pitch
    I was thinking of this too. Anyone have any input on these, types, how they work, etc?
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  6. #21
    Member gorja's Avatar
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    Originally posted by DTWarren:
    I was thinking of this too. Anyone have any input on these, types, how they work, etc?
    Someone at work installed these in the fall on a problem roof which always had ice dams. This year - NONE

    Check these out-
    http://www.easyheat.com/Content1/PDF..._broch_web.pdf

    http://www.easyheat.com/Content1/PDF...ersman_web.pdf

    Georgia L Schlager

  7. #22
    Member gorja's Avatar
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    There are 2 houses on my street that don't have gutters but have what looks like a 2" x 10" or 2" x 8" across the length of the roof about 3' up from the edge. Never saw that anywhere else before. Wouldn't that be detrimental to the foundation?

    Georgia L Schlager

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNYresident View Post
    I need a good roofer....

    We have a roof leak and need to plan to have it corrected...

    Any recommendations?
    Stockmore Roofing. They do a great job. They no all the secrets and although they are a bit pricey----the job will get done right.

  9. #24
    Member mikenold's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneEmerald View Post
    Can somebody answer this: Why do you get an ice build up to begin with? I see an ice build up on my house but nowhere near the build up on others with massive icicles.
    In order to conserve heat you want your house to keep the heat inside and not allow heat to escape through the roof. Well insulated houses with good roof ventilation will have more snow and ice build up on the roof. A poorly insulated house with low roof ventilation wil not have very much ice build up as the snow and ice are melted from within as heat escapes through the roofing area.

    The ice buildup is created when the snow melts and runs down the roofing. The higher portion of the roof is heated more than the lower areas due to the fact that heat rises. As the melted snow travels down the roof it changes back over to ice and forms a dam. This is often exasperated by the overhang of many roof systems. The interior section of the roof is much warmer than the eaves(overhang) of the roof due to heat loss through the attic. It is the dam that stops the water from continuing downward and actually ends up puddling and moving up the roof under the shingles and then finds any way downward again usually resulting in a path of least resistance through to the interior ceiling of your home.

    The best case scenario is to have a well ventilated roofing system and a well insulated attic allowing the heating and cooling to be retained. In order to alleviate the ice backup problem a quality ice and water shield should be installed underneath the roofing material. The ice and water shield should be installed starting at the bottom edge of the roof and continue up the roof at least 36"-72".

    I hope this explanation is not too long or boring.
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  10. #25
    Member mikenold's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorja View Post
    There are 2 houses on my street that don't have gutters but have what looks like a 2" x 10" or 2" x 8" across the length of the roof about 3' up from the edge. Never saw that anywhere else before. Wouldn't that be detrimental to the foundation?
    The gutter systems you mention here are called Yankee gutters. These are very typical throughout the city of Buffalo. Before metal gutter systems, homes were built with either a trough at the bottom of the roofing system (usually when the roofing material was tile, slate or copper) or with Yankee gutters.

    Yankee gutters are constructed by nailing or screwing a board (typically a 1-5/8" X 5" "gutter board") on end along the bottom 2 feet of the roof at an angle downward from one side of the roof to the other (typically at an angle of approximately 1" - 2" per 10' of linear footage). These gutters also had a spout built in to the lowest part of the angle in order to allow the water to flow from the gutter into a down spout which would carry the water to the ground or in many cases down into the fresh water sewer system.

    I hope this helps explain these "gutters" without getting too technical.
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  11. #26
    Member Frank Broughton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorja View Post
    There are 2 houses on my street that don't have gutters but have what looks like a 2" x 10" or 2" x 8" across the length of the roof about 3' up from the edge. Never saw that anywhere else before. Wouldn't that be detrimental to the foundation?
    Yankee gutters.... They work fine if proper ice shield is used. I do not even use gutters on part of my house. The water slopes away from the foundation in those locations.

    Ice is formed because heat is escaping up through your roof causing the snow to melt then freeze as it gets colder at night.

    Proper ventilation and installation is the only solution to ice buildup, electric contraptions and all are just stop gap measures.
    The above is opinion & commentary, I am exercising my 1st Amendment rights as a US citizen. Posts are NOT made with any malicious intent.

  12. #27
    Member Frank Broughton's Avatar
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    Opps, should have figured Mr. Roof Mike would have answered the questions. Scratch mine....

    Mike when I did my roof last year I just put ice shield on the complete roof, really did not coat that much more. Tripled up the valleys. Thought it best seeing I have a hip off a hip with two long valleys.

    Lots of ice this year as I have cathedral ceilings, yes I have a roof vent and baffling all the way up but just not enough rafter room for proper installation.
    The above is opinion & commentary, I am exercising my 1st Amendment rights as a US citizen. Posts are NOT made with any malicious intent.

  13. #28
    Member mikenold's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Broughton View Post
    Opps, should have figured Mr. Roof Mike would have answered the questions. Scratch mine....

    Mike when I did my roof last year I just put ice shield on the complete roof, really did not coat that much more. Tripled up the valleys. Thought it best seeing I have a hip off a hip with two long valleys.

    Lots of ice this year as I have cathedral ceilings, yes I have a roof vent and baffling all the way up but just not enough rafter room for proper installation.
    Cathedral ceilings are harder to insulate. However they make a baffle vent that runs on the inside of the rafter space allowing ventilation for each and every rafter space from soffit to ridge. Ridge vent and soffit vents must also cover all rafter areas. Always best to install BEFORE drywall application. Sorry!
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  14. #29
    Member Frank Broughton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikenold View Post
    Cathedral ceilings are harder to insulate. However they make a baffle vent that runs on the inside of the rafter space allowing ventilation for each and every rafter space from soffit to ridge. Ridge vent and soffit vents must also cover all rafter areas. Always best to install BEFORE drywall application. Sorry!
    Mike, I have baffles all the way! Just the old house uses 2x7 size rafters, too small for proper insulation.
    The above is opinion & commentary, I am exercising my 1st Amendment rights as a US citizen. Posts are NOT made with any malicious intent.

  15. #30
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    Why am I getting this when I try to read more than one page (1of 2) on this thread.

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